Thursday, June 25, 2026

Jun 15 Puffins on the Bonavista Peninsula

 


The community of Elliston wanted something to attract folks to town, so they named themselves the root cellar capital of the world. I don't think folks flock there for the root cellars, it is the puffins. Atlantic puffins congregate on offshore islands here to lay their eggs. Puffins burrow down into the ground to do so. The burrow affords them some security from the everpresent predators. We saw Great black backed gulls abd Bald eagles in the area. 


There were thousands of puffins on the nearby island about 100 yards away. However, there were 3 that were getting all the attention, posing just 10 feet from a roped off trail. I am told that they felt safe this close since they could easily have dove off the cliff away from danger at any moment. 


There are some gulls out there too but mostly puffins. Lots of burrow too. And some noise. 





Heart shaped water entering and exiting through 2 seacaves. 






Jun 14 Terra Nova and Trinity

 

Canada May flowers in June

Terra Nova National Park protects the boreal forest and coastal area on the Bonavista Sea. The forest is dominated by Black spruce and Balsam fir. There is a healthy number of larch or Tuckamore as they seem to be called here. Some folks call them jumiper too. They are a deciduous conifer, Most of the trees we saw were just beginning to grow needles. They are as soft as a feather. 


American fly honeysuckle


Rhodora (Rhododendron canadense) was blooming during our visit here.





map lichen



Later in the day, we visited Trinity, a coastal community with many colorful buildings and a hug church.

Church built by ship builders


Engraved silver disk embedded in a Mahogany table describes the place where the tree was taken. 

Worm tunnels in the mahogany table

An arch!

Batismal in the church





Wednesday, June 24, 2026

Jun 12 Icebergs and Thrombolites

 


By ship in rough water, we did a tour of all the icebergs passing by St Anthony NL today. Two people aboard got seasick. I was waiting for my turn but it never came. Yesterday's rain has stopped and it is 7 degrees warmer, which is only 46F. However, there are winds today and that is making it a really rough ride.


This iceberg has lots of dirt on it. It could be a couple years worth. This one has not turned over which will clean the dirt off. 



There is a seacave here. In calmer water you might be able to kayak into it. Although, we heard the story of one fisherman who won't be doing that again. The story goes that a fellow in a boat entered the cave but the boat was damaged causing the poor fellow to spend 7 days in the cave stranded. A local fishman passed near the seacave opening and heard a ghostly voice inside. He mentioned this when he returned to shore. A rescue mission was launched and the shipwrecked fellow was saved. He said he survived on capelins.

Christened in the North Atlantic




The tiny community of Flowers Cove is home to these Thrombolite structures. I can't explain what these things are but maybe you can. Here is the google AI explanation: The thrombolites at Flower's Cove in Newfoundland, Canada, are ancient fossilized microbial structures estimated to be 650 million years old. They are extremely rare, making Flower's Cove one of only two places on Earth where you can see formations of this age and type (with the other location being in Western Australia).

These primitive, bun-shaped "living rocks" are fossilized remnants of bacteria and algae (cyanobacteria) that lived in shallow, ancient waters. As they grew, these organisms trapped and bound sediment together, building up the unique, clotted structures visible along the coastline today







Tuesday, June 23, 2026

Jun 11 L'Anse au Meadows & St Brendan's Stone

 

Leif

From the Icelandic Sagas, we learn of the Norse arrival in North America. The sagas are family oral histories which span hundreds of years and many generations. They were written down by Icelandic monks in the 13th and 14th centuries. Cross references in multiple sagas piece together a story. 

Bjami Herjolfssn along with Gutrid his wife are part of an Iceland to Greenland convey of boats when they are blown off course and away from their group. They spot distinct lands but do not land. The 3 places are mentioned as:

Helluland - Flat stone land
Markland - Forest land
Vinland - Meadows with grains and berries with forest land.

They manage to make it to Greenland and stay with Eirick the Red. Herjolfssn dies and his wife Gutrid marries Eirick's son Karlsafni, bother of Leif. Everyone has heard of this good land to the southwest. Leif decides to visit it. The year is dated by tree rings on a wooden tool found at the site at 1021 AD. Leif builds several longhouses, a forge and several other structures. They overwinter there and may have traveled some more exploring. Leif and his crew return to Greenland the following year.

A few years later the sagas tell us that Karlsafni and Gutrid request that Leif loan them the buildings he has at L'Anse au Meadows. They sail there with 65 people and stay for an undetermined amount of time. If they had intended to stay permanently is not known. For some reason they left and may have burned the buildings. 

Beginning in the 18th century there was all sorts of speculation as to where the Norse land called Vinland was. In the 1890s a Harvard professor was convinced the Norse had settled on the Charles River near Boston. The site turned out to be Native American but it had many folks convinced for some time. All this speculation prompted Norwegians, Helge Ingstad and Anne Stine to take a comprehensive approach. They decided to spend their retirement looking for Vinland by land and sea. Using the descriptions in the sagas they toured offshore by boat looking at landscapes. They also inquired on land about ancient building ruins. Their travels started in Rhode Island and worked up the coast. At the northern tip of Newfoundland they encountered a local, George Decker. When Decker learned what they were looking for, he immediately mentioned the "Indian mounds" locals referred to them as. In a meadow by a shallow bay, Decker cut hay. The hay grew better right around these mounds. When Heldge and Anne saw the mounds they immediately regonized them as the footprint of a Norse longhouse. The surrounding area looked to the couple as a perfect spot for the Norse to settle.


After some excavation certain artifacts with Iceland and Greenland origins began to surface. However, the world was slow to concide this was Vinland. With so many wild stories about Vikings in Minnesota and down the US seaboard, people needed some reassurance this was not another crackpot story. It took a while but it is generally accepted now. We still don't know where they traveled beyong Vinland. A butternut was found in the bog by the village. The nearest butternut now and then is in New Brunswick. 


The original site is nearby. What we saw is a recreated village with costumed interpretors demonstrating weaving, cooking, forging etc. 







The cove where the Norse landed.





As our bus was making the final approach to the tip of Newfoundland where the site is located, we passed St Brendans Motel. My fascination with early explorers was immediately alerted. Does this place have a connection to Saint Brendan? I asked Garfield, our  bus driver who is from nearby St Anthony, about St Brendan. He didn’t know who that was. So, I asked at the L’Anse au Meadows visitors center. After inquiring and passing through three people, I spoke with a very knowledgeable archeologist, Ragnar, apparently his real name. He told me there was a stone with a carving of what is thought to be gaelic writing and symbols in the Ogham alphabet. It is located up a hill on a trail between the motel and the Daily Catch Restaurant. I saw a photo of it but it is so difficult to make anything out. Ragnar says that someone, years ago, scraped the lichen off to see the carving better. By doing this, it is now impossible to date the carving using known methods. Had the lichen been present, it could have been dated and maybe this would be a different story. 


Who was St Brendan? We’re pretty sure he was a real guy, born c. 484 to 577,  an Irish monastic saint and legendary Voyager. Also known as Brendan the Navigator, he is the patron saint of sailors, mariners, and whales. He is most famous for his epic 7-year Atlantic expedition to the "Isle of the Blessed", famously recorded in the 10th-century medieval text Navigatio Sancti Brendani Abbatis


His voyage took him to the Orkneys, Hebrides, Faroe Island and probably Iceland. Some scholars speculate he made it to Newfoundland. The 10th century text of the voyage mentions “forges of fire from the earth” a possible reference to Iceland’s volcanoes. The sagas also mention that when the Norse first came to Iceland there were Irish monks living there. Archeological finds document structures and man made caves built prior to the 874 AD arrival of the Norse. The case for Newfoundland gets thinner. There is the rock with the odd drawings. There is another one on the east coast of Newfoundland. The 9th century text mentions St Brendan encountering whales, ice columns and a foggy land so big they roamed it 40 days and did not cover it. 


The Norse began raiding Ireland in 795 AD. Certainly, they would have learned from the Irish that St Brendan had sailed to lands west of there, like Iceland. Could that have prompted them to go looking for Iceland?



I guess I need to see this in person. It doesn't photograph well.


Jun 10 Point Amour Labrador

 


Built in 1857-8, Point Amour lighthouse is the tallest in Atlantic Canada. It is constructed of locally quarried limestine, painted white. The house attached was for the light keeper and family. 3 generations of Wyatts lived here for 85 years. The house now serves as a museum. The lighthouse guards the strait at its narrowest point. Ships are forced into a narrow 22 mile wide passage. That doesn't sound like much but when you only have wind/sail power and a storm is raging, rocks and icebergs get in the way.



This is the only photo of a moose I took during our trip. It was running for dear life alongside the bus. 




530 million year old calcite remains of sponglike sea creatures formed reefs in this odd shape. This would have occurred when the land here was part of a shallow tropical ocean. 


Jun 15 Puffins on the Bonavista Peninsula

  The community of Elliston wanted something to attract folks to town, so they named themselves the root cellar capital of the world. I don...