Mar 5-7 Big South Fork

 

This is located northwest of Knoxville in a sparsely populated area of the Cumberland Plateau. It spills over into Kentucky and it straddles the Eastern/Central time zones. The Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area sits on 125,000 square areas adjacent to a number of other preserved properties - Pickett State Rustic Park (TN), Pogue Canyon State Natural Area (TN), Daniel Boone National Forest (KY).  Big South Fork hosts the southern terminus of the 354 mile Sheltowee Trace National Recreation Trail.

Its namesake is the free-flowing 76 mile Big South Fork of the Cumberland River. The river cuts through the sandstone here, creating a deep gorge with towering sandstone bluffs on either side. 

Our visit here lasted several days, staying at a friend's cabin just outside the park. I'm going to write individually about the many features we encountered in the park, in separate blog entries. 

Our guide and cabin host, Keith Garnes, has been exploring the BSF area since the winter of '89, acquiring land and a cabin in 2002. His knowledge of the natural features and trails of the park is encyclopedic. During our visit we spent time with several other locals including a master caver, Ken Pasternack. Ken explores caves in the area. BSF has sandstone caves which are rather short and have many different features and characteristics than limestone caves found nearby. He mentioned there were several limestone caves in the 25 mile category and many at various lower mileages. Ken shared many fabulous professionally done photos of the caves which were part of a massive glossy book Ken was involved in putting together. Our last night in the area, we spend time around a campfire with our cadre of new friends.

I'll mention "time" here. I was told beforehand that because we were straddling the time zone it would be confusing. I didn't give that much thought. Beware, it is confusing. Oh, and we had the standard to daylight change occurring during our stay also.  At the cabin, my phone would pick up signal from Central time tower and minutes later, get signal from an Eastern tower. That goes on all day. Whenever you make plans with others, you have to specify what time zone and then remember that. 

We stayed in the cutest cabin on several acres of forest. Looking out back, there was a drainage and open forest. I wandered down to look around. Some Rhododendrons caught my eye. Looking closer, I could see that they were blocking a view of a steep drop. I managed to slip down into it and there was this waterfall just a 30 second walk from the cabin but completely out of sight. 

Inside the rockhouse by Keith's cabin. 

What is a rockhouse? I didn't know until visiting here. Sandstone overhangs are called rockhouses. Keith says that in Tennessee, if the overhang is 50 feet or more, it can be considered a cave. We saw rockhouses. Lots of them. Everywhere. There are also arches which can be called natural bridges too. Keith says, an opening over 3 feet can be considered an arch. I also heard small openings be called windows and skylights depending on where they were located. 

There is a huge equestrian presence in the area. Most of the land outside the park along main roads is comprised of huge horse spreads. We saw lots of fancy pickups with designer horse trailers. All that alongside homes and debris collections at the other side of the spectrum.  

Probably, the most striking aspect of this area is the number of top tier land and water features that can be seen in such a short time. Most of my Smoky Mountain hikes involve hiking long distance to one or maybe two features. Here, you are blown away multiple times at the features you encounter.

Feb 17 Great Dismal Swamp

 

Early colonial maps often listed swamps as "dismals". The name really stuck here. And for emphasis, "great" was added as if "dismal" wasn't enough. In 1728 William Byrd II surveyed the "dividing line" between the two colonies, Carolina and Virginia. His characterization of the area was quite negative and suggested that it be drained. There was an earlier colonist who ventured into the swamp. William Drummond had been appointed governor of the Albemarle Colony, later to become Carolina Colony. He and a hunting party ventured into and got lost in the swamp in 1665. Drummond was the only one of his party that survived. The large lake in the middle of the swamp is named for Drummond. 

The coastal area of Virginia was settled in 1607. The Albemarle area was settled much later by the 1690s. Bath was founded in 1705. The dividing line was surveyed in 1728. George Washington invested in and surveyed a canal and ditch system to drain the swamp. That didn't work. Efforts to drain the swamp to make agricultural land was successful on the edges but the core remained. Originally thought to have been 1.28 million acres, it has dwindled to a much smaller size. The protected area now is about 125,000 acres. North Carolina's state park protects 14,000 acres and the remainder is the Dismal Swamp National Wildlife Refuge. 

As populations to the north and south of the swamp grew, building a canal through the swamp to provide transport of goods became a higher priority than draining. In 1787 the Dismal Swamp Canal Company formed, led by Patrick Henry. Construction was begun in 1893. In 1805, the 22 mile canal from Deer Creek VA and South Mills NC opened. It connected the Albemarle Sound via the Pasquatank River with Chesapeake Bay via the Elizabeth River making it an intracoastal waterway. 

The taxidermy display at Dismal Swamp State Park doesn't rival the one at Goose Creek but it is a nice collection. 

Check out the light brown raccoon

The state park visitors center is a great place to start. Watch an orientation film and read as much more information as you can absorb. You could spend hours here. The center is right alongside the canal. There is a drawbridge over it since it is part of the Intracoastal Waterway. Behind the center is a boardwalk among some very large trees.

I've learned that every acre of the swamp has been timbered at least once. That timbering began before the civil war. Atlantic White Cedar was the money tree with Bald Cypress and Swamp Tupelo not far behind. Trees that grow in the swamp are usually rot resistant. At the top of the list is the Atlantic White Cedar. It was highly prized for shingles to build homes. The trees were cut in the swamp and prepared into shingles in the swamp. The shingles were hauled out in barges that could be pulled in the ditch network. 

From the visitor center several trails lead off into the swamp and along the canal. I spent about an hour walking these trails. Almost everywhere you look, there is a tangle of vines. 

It is a disturbed area, being next to the canal, so one would expect vines. But this !!!!

Some birds seem to really like this dense thicket

US 17 cuts through the swamp. Some of the original road remains here and has been repurposed as greenways. The road paralleled the canal. Riding in a a car, you'd have been able to see the canal most of the way. An effort is underway to incorporate this section of trail into the larger East Coast Greenway.

Chessie welcomes visitors

Looks like a highway

River cane has lost 98% of its pre-colonial range

A scenic 5 mile drive accesses Lake Drummond beginning by the headquarters for the wildlife refuge. A fee is required to drive here. A single lane sand and gravel road follows and crosses ditches as it makes its way to Lake Drummond. 

Along the drive is an area honoring and remembering the African Americans in this area. Maroon communities were located throughout the swamp. These communities consisted of escaped slaves and free blacks. They isolated themselves to prevent capture. Several community ruins have been located and excavated to give us clues as to how they survived out there. Dr Daniel Sayers of American University has studied these communities extensively and published a book of his findings. He says that for the 100 years prior to the Civil War, there would have been thousands of maroons living in the swamp at any given time.  

These people would have had to come into contact with the lumber crews and they did. Apparently, maroons often worked for the lumber companies using their knowledge of the swamp to assist in lumbering operations. Many continued as lumber workers after emancipation. 

Feb 16 Hiking Merchant's Millpond

 

Fish ladder at the dam

It would have been difficult to complete my trip to the great Dismal Swamp without a visit to Merchant's Millpond State Park. Although, I have been here several times before, it was always on the water. I didn't even know there was a hiking component to the park. There is! A total of 4 hiking trails with 12 miles and another 5 miles of bike paths. I didn't hike the bike paths, just the hiking trails, starting with the Lassiter Trail. 

Lassiter does a lollipop loop from the picnic area. You catch a few glimpses of the pond but mainly this trail travels through an open forest. There are some Loblolly stands mixed in. I enjoyed the Beech trees along the trail. 

The name Merchants refers to the mill being the hub of activity in the area, attracting other small businesses to operate in the vicinity. 

The Coleman trail is also a loop and is named for the A B Coleman. Shortly before WWII operations around the millpond came to a halt and millers sold the land to developers. In the 1960s, A.B. Coleman from Moyok, NC purchased the property and later donated 919 acres, including the millpond, to the state. His generous donation led to the establishment of Merchants Millpond State Park in 1973. In the same year, the Nature Conservancy contributed an additional 925 acres of woodlands to the park that now encompasses more than 3,250 acres.

The short trail, Cypress Point get a lot of up close to pond views. This was a great birding area this morning. 

A stunningly dense stand of River cane. 

This lonely grave sits alongside the Bennett Creek trail. It is the grave of a 42 year old man H.A. Wolfley. It simply states that and "My Husband. Thy will be done". It would appear that this site was meant for 2 graves but I suspect she moved on. A quick search shows that is the case. She married again in 1913, outlived that husband too and died in 1960.  

Feb 3 the Allee at Wormsloe

 

The big attraction at Wormsloe State Historic site just south of Savannah, is this 1.5 mile long allee (avenue of Oaks). there are 400 Southern Live Oaks lining the dirt drive. They were planted in 1893, so they have really developed some character over that time.

Overlooking Skidaway river

Back in 1733 James Oglethorpe and a company of colonists, established the Colony of Georgia. One of the leading officials was Noble Jones. Jones was tasked with constructing a fortified building on this property overlooking Skidaway River on its approach to the Savannah River. The building was to be his home and a fort guarded by Marines. The structure was begun in 1739 and completed by 1745. It was made of tabby, a crude concrete like material made with lime and oyster shells. Native Americans all along the southern coast consumed oysters and built mounds of shells. Early colonists often found these mounds and utilized them as building material for tabby structures. 

The building and over 800 acres were deeded to Jones in 1745. It remained in his family for generations. The estate was used in a number of unsuccessful ventures until finally cotton made it profitable. In 1828 another mansion was built on the property and became the family's main residence. That mansion still exists and is used by the family today, set aside from the State Historic Site. 

During the 1900s, the tabby building fell into ruins but the family home was expanded and even opened as a tourist attraction. The family demolished all the slave quarters except one. A local black woman, Lizy was hired to occupy that house as part of the attraction. She dressed the part of a southern mammy, claimed she was born into slavery in that very building and invited guests in to sample her hoecakes. Eventually, the state of Georgia revoked the estate's tax exempt status and tried taxing the property. A long protracted legal battle worked its way to the Georgia supreme court in 1973. The court decreed that the bulk of the estate be deeded to The Nature Conservancy (then to the state of Georgia) with 50 acres and the mansion, library, gardens etc set aside for the family to live on. However, the family had to use the mansion as their main residence otherwise the property becomes property of the state. They are still there. 

Feb 1 Cumberland Island

 

Travel much on Cumberland Island and this will look quite familiar. It is the main road along the island. Packed down sand with lots of Live oak branches to watch out for. 

We began on a freezing morning in St Mary GA. It was a record low temperature this morning. The town isn't accustomed to this. There was a water main leaking water onto a leaky pipe ice sculpture. The NPS ferry Cumberland Queen took us from the town dock, out the St Mary River toward Cumberland Island. The 40 minute ride was cold inside the unheated cabin. 

Once on the island we waited a few minutes for our tour guide to arrive. Everyone was reacting to the cold weather. A group of Cub Scouts had spent the night out on the island. they were huddling in the tiny ferry office waiting for their ride out. 

Our guide for today's tour arrived and got us and another couple in the van for the all day "Land and Legacy" tour. The tour was led by a volunteer. She has volunteered for a year or more and lives along with other volunteers on the island in park housing. The entire island is a National Seashore administered by the NPS. There are inholdings of private residents. It is a mixed bag of people and circumstances that allow some folks to reside here. 

All horses and feral pigs on the island are not descended from Spanish horses and pigs like other barrier islands. They were all turned out in the 1920s by families including the Carnegies who could not or did not want to care for them anymore. So, they have some thoroughbred in them since the Carnegies would have had only the best back when they could afford such a luxury. 

We drove the 7 mile trip to the north end of the island. Of course there is an obligatory stop at the tiny African American church JFK Jr was married in. JFK Jr had met Carnegie descendent GoGo Ferguson previously. She has part ownership of the only inn on the island, Greyfield Inn. In order to keep the paparazzi and the public in general, away from the wedding, Cumberland Island provided the ideal place. Public access is restricted via ferry capacity, Plus, the public does not have access to vehicles on the island. So even if you could get there, getting from the ferry landing to the tiny church is a 7 mile trek. Their wedding went off without the curiosity seekers. 

Access to the beach is via this long boardwalk through the dunes. Trying to make your way out there otherwise could be an ordeal through the heavy bush here. 

This is what most of the island looks like

The Dungeness site has a lot of history. Once owned by Nathanial Greene and later by Thomas Carnegie and his descendants, the area has some good stories. Nathanial Greene financed some of his troops needs by personally paying for necessities. He was never reimbursed by the Continental Congress or US Congress. However, his widow Katy continued to pursue repayment and was was finally given some repayment. With her newly found wealth, she married her kids' tutor Phineas Miller and they built a mansion of tabby construction. It was a grand place but not nearly grand enough for Thomas Carnegie who wanted the place for a winter residence. He built his own Dungeness and staffed it with 300 servants and laborers. After the Carnegies could no longer afford the place and left it in 1925, it fell into disrepair and was burned in 1959. A local fellow who had been caught poaching was suspected as the arsonist. 

Cumberland Queen waits at the dock

Plum Orchard

The NPS has restored Plum Orchard mansion. Thomas and Lucy Carnegie had the home built for their son George and new wife Margaret from 1898 to 1906. It, too was left vacant for decades. Although, it has had extensive work, it looks far from finished. 

It is a gorgeous beach.