Apr 28 Sweat Heifer

Last day of Pilgrimage and it is a fine day indeed. We gather at Newfound Gap and shuttle cars to the Kephart Prong trailhead. Finally, we are underway. We stop alot on the 1.7 mile hike of the AT to Seat Heifer. We learn about Skunk goldenrod whose odor we smell on and off today. We head about the endemic Rugels Ragwort named for famed botanist Ferdinand Rugels. And we saw this school bus lichen above.

After making the turn onto Sweat Heifer, I spot a Ruffed Grouse on the ground. Later we see a brown headed nuthatch. 

Whatta burl

Sweat Heifer is another area of rich diversity. Carol Ann and Joey lead the way into the botanical world. We slowly make our way down 2500 feet in elevation, passing unmatched beauty along the way.

A discussion ensues

"Steady, Professor"

Dwarf ginseng

We ran through several areas where Dwarf Ginseng was in flower and in fruit. This is not the highly prized ginseng which is poached from the park to supply demand in China. 

Undulatum

Wood Betony

As we reached the shelter which marked the end of the Sweat Heifer Trail, I escaped from the group so I'd be able to put in an appearance at a wedding back in Asheboro.

Fringed Phacelia

Apr 27 Huskey & Cucumber Gaps

Little Brown Jugs

The sun decided to make an appearance today. It was much appreciated by all. Today's hike began with a van ride to the Huskey Gap Trailhead. From here we begin hiking uphill. For most of the morning , we were headed uphill. This is a very rich area with much plant diversity. Our group splits in to 3 smaller groups so we can all hear commentary from one of the 3 botanist leaders. I found myself in what later became known as the "rogue group". So called for the slow pace we moved at. Our leader, Margie Hunter, has such a wonderful way of making the complex world of botany, easy to understand.

Wild Ginger

We crossed magnificently rich seeps on this section, loaded with most all the spring wildflowers being showcased. Below, my favorite fern, walking fern made a cameo appearance today. It was on a rock that sported so many other gems.

Walking Fern

By late morning we reached the high point on the trail and then began heading down in a much different environment. As we made our way down, once again a magnificent seep appeared. This one was loaded with trilliums, as far as you could see up, down and ahead.

The 21 leaf Yellow Trillium

A bit further along, Margie spots the Yellow Trillium anomaly she had know of. This group of 6 individuals has reverted back to being all foliage with no flower.

Near there, we stop for lunch and briefly see the other groups. From here, it is a short distance to the junction with Little River Trail and a short walk alongside the creek. Then we turn away from the creek and hike moderately uphill. 

Cindy surveys the creek crossing

This creek doesn't usually pose an issue but there has been much rain this week and the creek is near capacity. I had carried my water shoes which made this crossing easy but others had a time crossing. Many walked upcreek where a fallen tree made a natural bridge. 

Cucumber Gap Trail is a pleasant hike. There were many others out enjoying this trail today. I thoroughly enjoyed today as well. 

Leaves sprout in the roots of an uprooted tree

Last destination today is the Avent Cabin off Jakes Creek Trail. Built in 1845 and acquired by the Avents in the 1920s, it was used by Mayna Avent as a studio. Her watercolor of the cabin is printed on the looseleaf notebook in the cabin.

Mayna Avent's studio cabin

Apr 26 Porters Creek at Night

In an effort to provide more evening events at Pilgrimage, this night hike is a new item. Doing a night hike requires a special venue. Walking on single track trail with rocks and roots and possibly muddy areas is problematic. The first mile of Porter's Creek is an ideal trail for this hike. It is an old gravel road which can still be used by park vehicles. We walk alongside Porters Creek, giving us a rather noisy background. 

Rattlesnake fern

We walk up to the Messer barn and the old Smoky Mountain Hiking Club cabin. The cabin sits on the site of the Messer homesite. As darkness looms, we eat quickly and walk back in the dark.

One of our group remembers dances were held on the second floor of the Messer barn in the prepark era.

Apr 26 Meigs Creek in Rain

Second day of Pilgrimage, I'm on an all day 9 miler beginning at Metcalf Bottoms, up Curry Mountain Trail, then Meigs Mountain Trail and down Meigs Creek Trail to the Sinks. Having hiked Meigs Creek before, I am well aware of the 16 creek crossings. Today they will be high but I am prepared with appropriate footwear. Of course, it is raining too so we're going to get wet no matter what.

It is a full to capacity outing, so no one has been deterred by the inclement weather. I don't think any of the other pilgrims were aware of the creek crossings. Leader Ed Lickey makes sure everyone knows that we'll be knee deep in water.  

My Kavu hat

Pilgrimage hikes are slow. We stop and talk about all sorts of things we are seeing. The wonderfully knowledgeable botanists who accompany each hike have a mind blowing amount of plant knowledge. Add to that fungi, birds, insects, lichen, liverworts, invertebrates, exoskeletals, bryophytes and occasionally someone gives a lecture on the Arcto Tertiary Geoflora which has been around since the K/T event 65 million years ago. I've heard it twice. 

Ok, we head up Curry Mountain and stop alot. Ed finds some Pigs ear fungus and another polypore which looked to me like Diamond polypore but Ed called it Dryad's Saddle. John collected sedges along the way. And we saw a multitude of wildflowers.

Lunch was at the junction with Meigs Mountain Trail. Lush vegetation became the theme from here. There were immense grape vines, lots of large black locust and Fraser magnolias. 

Once we made the turn to follow Meigs Creek, the excitement started. The first few creek crossings were ankle deep but about the third one was close to knee deep. It was relatively treacherous but everyone made it. About this time, all hope of staying in dry boots was gone. Three of the gals decided to just walk barefoot from here, four of us had sandals and the others just walked in waterlogged boots.

The Professor show us how to do it.

The fearless sedgemaster leads the way

Barefoot and brave

On the final mile or so, we spot Pink ladyslippers trailside. 

Everyone made it but there was some grumbling about the high water. The sinks were roaring. A couple kayakers were assessing the route and decided to wait for another day. Some logs had lodged in the cascade right where they wanted to go.

Again, it is late and I still have a night hike to do.

Apr 25 Beech Gap Forest at Indian Gap

Its still the first day of Pilgrimage and things are bound to get messed up. It is raining and there was an accident on Clingman Dome Road, which closed the road for over 5 hours. That will impact this next outing since we are supposed to set up a shuttle between Newfound Gap and Indian Gap (on Clingman Dome Rd). Thus, I arrive early and the co-leader is already in place. As Pilgrims file in to our meeting spot, there is no sign of the leaders. Everyone is here but the 2 leaders. We decide to go ahead without them and forego the shuttle, so we are underway. People join us enroute and people drop out. It is impossible to keep track of how many we are. 

There are no flowers to oow and aah about, but out co-leader is an expert on Beech gaps so we hear her lecture. This particular Beech gap has a fence around it. It is a hog exclosure. It was placed here 20 or more years ago to study how this area develops without hogs. Of course, hogs or feral swine are a park menace. Wild Russian Boar were brought to this area in 1903 for a hunting preserve. The preserve fell into disrepair, the boar got loose, mated with feral pigs and now populate the park. They are very destructive creatures, foraging like rototillers.

Beech clones are in this area. We are told, Beech trees send out runners which pop up as trees. These clones can be quite large. It is possible that every tree in the photo above is the same organism. It is also possible, there are multiple individuals here. I've heard Black locust can clone also with a clone having been documented to be over a mile long. One of the threats to Beech is the Beech bark disease. Beech scale insect causes cankers to form and eventually lesions on the tree bark which can kill the tree. 

This tunnel goes underneath the Clingman Dome Road. It is full of water today. 

Apr 25 Chimney Tops in the Fog

It is the first day of Spring Wildflower Pilgrimage and I am headed up Chimney Tops with other pilgrims. Gary Walker shows up with his Kavu hat, exactly like the one I just purchased. We are trendsetters, or at least Gary is. He wore his to Viet Nam and received so much attention, he spoke with a Kavu rep who shipped him a case of hat in return for getting a bunch of photos of Vietnamese wearing them. They probably have figured out how to knock off the hat by now.

Fringed phacelia makes its presence known as we head up the trail. It is the first opportunity I've had to walk this trail since the Trails Forever trail crew spent a season refurbishing this steep and eroded trail. The trail is one of the most popular hikes in the park and it's parking area maxes out early almost every day. Being good citizen scientists, we traveled via van here. 

The Chimney Tops II fire started here and burned very hot. Virtually all the vegetation and soil which clung to the rocky tops, eroded away. It may well be that the top will never be accessible again. The trail comes to an abrupt end and it is made quite clear, going further is strictly off limits. Very near here is a nice area with views. We could only see fog today.

Above, is fine example of the handiwork of the Trails Forever crew. Stone steps replace what would have been a very eroded trail.

The youths who started Chimney Tops II fire have been released and charges have been dropped. I would guess their families have moved from the area. I have heard many stories about the fire and the aftermath. You can easily still see the charred remains in this area of the park. Now we are learning more about what happens to plant life after a fire. Most areas regenerate quickly but were it burned hot and burned nutrients out of the soil are a different narrative still playing out.

This trail is now just 1.7 miles, one way. We were about an hour overdue. It was steep and took its toll on a couple pilgrims who underestimated it. 

Apr 23 My Wildflowers

On the property, blooming and ready to bloom. Five Pinxter bushes spotted.

Apr 23 Trail Cam

Northern Flicker

I believe this is a domesticated feral cat.

The hound on his way to visit Scout