Where the rivers meet in Pittsburgh, the trail begins.
Golden Triangle is the confluence of the Allegheny and Monongahela Rivers, the Forks of the Ohio, site of Fort Duquesne and Fort Pitt, today's Pittsburgh. The Watergate is the lock gate that opens into the Potomac River in Washington DC. The two spots are connected via the Great Allegheny Passage Trail (former railbed of the Pittsburgh and Erie Railroad and the C&O Canal towpath along the Potomac River. Its 340 miles of trail and my sore tail survived somehow.
Approach to the Hot Metal Bridge in Pittsburgh
Getting to Pittsburgh from DC where I left my vehicle, required a short 2 mile bike ride to an Enterprise Rental Car location on busy Georgia Ave. Once hooked up with a Nissan small SUV, I loaded my bike, pack and all, in the back. Pulling out into commuter traffic was not fun, but at least it was moving. My route took me through Maryland in heavy rain and onto the Pennsylvania Turnpike and into Pittsburgh. I had prepaid the gas tank, so bringing it in empty was the plan. With 25 miles to go, the gauge showed I had 34 miles of gas left. Then the gauge went blank. I drove on into downtown Pittsburgh hoping I'd make it. The Enterprise drop off was on the 5th floor of a parking garage. I just hoped I won't run out of gas on one of the ramps. There was one spot on the 5th level, right next to the elevator. Once I had checked out, it was a simple ride to the Allegheny Heritage Trail and then a quick ride to the point - Golden Triangle. It is an impressive sight, the formation of the Ohio. From here, the trail is not signed but you follow the only bike trail, along the Monongahela. It was about 3 miles of various trails, sidewalks and a long ride along the interstate with just a chain link fence separating. That was loud. At one point, there was a GAP sign, but I did not see another until the Hot Metal Bridge. That is the cross over to South Side. Here the trail does have some signage and begins to resemble a trail instead of a mish mash of sidewalks.
Pittsburgh skyline
Now it is a 6 mile ride to Homestead. The sprawl of the city continues all the way. It is paved trail, so I'm riding at a pretty good clip. The rain has ended but everything is wet. Homestead is a very pleasant town with several hotels and many restaurants along the waterfront.
Back in 1892, two riots occurred here. The first was when Henry Clay Frick fired all workers from the huge steel mill owned by Andrew Carnegie. Two barges of 300 Pinkerton Private Guards were sent on the river to take control of the plant - before replacement, non-union workers were hired. The Union workers and supporters attacked the Pinkertons and a 12 hour gun battle ensued. Eventually, the Pinkertons surrendered and were escorted to jail. Three Pinkertons and 8 workers died in the battle. Frick then asked the governor for help. The 8500 National Guardsman took control of the plant from the union. Replacement workers, mostly southern blacks, were hired with lower wages and longer hours. Late that year another riot occurred between white workers and blacks and their families. The union finally gave up and many former workers accepted lower wages and longer hours.
Traveling through McKeesport
While in Homestead, I stopped for a late lunch, during which I tried to make reservations at a couple places down the trail. Eventually, I ended up with a room at Bright Morning B&B in West Newton, about 20 miles away. Still on pavement, I made the short ride to McKeesport through an industrial wasteland. Former coke and steel mills have given way to a crumbling infrastructure. Some old building still have lives as warehouses. There is one round brick building which may have housed a giant railroad turntable. The trail twists and turns through town when finally you are spit out on a dead end road with a trailhead near the end. There was very little signage through town but I never lost the way. Suddenly, you are in woods and the ride to West Newton is on decent surface.
Mine runoff
Along this section, I passed two trailside waterfalls which were odd looking. One seemed to have ice on it. However, at 90 degrees, that can't be. This one also looks a little icy but it is not. A nearby coal mine hit the water table and water rose through the mine and rubble, becoming quite acidic and colored by minerals. Thus making these odd waterfalls. The acid run off contaminates the rivers the water ends up in.
My gear
I rolled into West Newton about 6:30pm. My room was in one of 4 houses that comprise the Bright Morning B&B run by Rob and Mary Lou. A short walk leads to the The Trailside, a popular local restaurant. I made the trek there for a couple ciders. I sat with a chemistry professor who spoke to me about our respective 2020 trips to Ireland.
During the evening, I calculated what I thought I'd be able to do the next day. Then tried to book a place in Ohiopyle. No luck, so I booked at room at the Smith House Inn in Confluence, 53 miles down the trail.
Bright Morning B&B owner Rob, was head chef at a University in a previous life. He did the breakfast cooking and I was off to an early start.
During today's ride, I would pass through Connellsville, the largest town on the GAP other than the bookends Pittsburgh and Cumberland. It was about 25 miles. I arrived at 11am quite tired. The morning's ride was in the through open terrain and temperatures had reached into the 80s headed into the low 90s. Seeing a sandwich shop just off the trail, I went in, hydrated and ate a sandwich. Feeling a bit revived, I'm back on the trail. About 30 minutes into the afternoon ride, I feel queasy and eventually got sick. Having a meal on a hot day was a mistake. After that little setback, I felt better and rolled on. The heat slowed my pace to Ohiopyle but I arrived there about 2, got hydrated and sat talking with other riders at the depot.
Monongahela below
I met up with a couple guys whom I had eaten breakfast with. They asked me to join them for some ice cream to celebrate one fellow's 65th. I had to decline, not wishing too risk getting sick again.
Bike tools
The ride into Confluence from Ohiopyle is ten miles and in the shade of Ohiopyle State Park. So I had a scenic ride. Despite the heat, I had good spirits riding into Confluence. Upon arriving, I could feel the energy leaving me. It got me that far and now all I had to do was find the B&B. After riding up and down local streets, a fellow driving by saw that I was trying to read google maps and stopped to ask me if he could help. "Yes, I'm looking for the Smith House" was my reply. "Ahh, the Smith House, named for George and Mary Kay Smith. You are going to have a nice breakfast." I followed him around the block right to a home I had just ridden by. He told me to leave me bike back by the garage before going in. I thanked him as he drove off. Apparently I was a bit early for check in and had to wait on the porch where it was hot and buggy. Finally, a woman checked me in and toured the house with me. I almost fainted when I stood up. It was a tiring day. I'd be the only one in the house that night and someone would come by in the morning to prepare a breakfast at 8am.
Welcome to Confluence
After a shower, I walked to downtown, about 3 blocks. I had been advised the only place serving food was Mitch's Food and Fuel. Gas station food is hardly pleasing but they made a decent Cobb salad.
Barb showed up at 6am to prepare breakfast. When she learned I was the only one there and could eat earlier, she cooked up a tasty breakfast before 7am. So I got an extra early start. This accommodation was exceptional and I highly recommend.
Confluence in the mist
It is 63 miles to Cumberland and it is going to be hot again, low 90s. However, I just have to exert for 38 miles, at which point I reach the Eastern Continental Divide and then its downhill to Cumberland. Of course, those 38 miles are all uphill but not as noticeable and much less elevation gain going this way.
This section contains some great features, so I have much to look forward to, plus that 24 mile downhill.
Is that Oba Oba that is missing?
Pinkerton Tunnel is open!!!
The first treat is the Pinkerton Tunnel. I have been here 3 times before but the tunnel has not been open until within the past year. So that bumpy bypass trail can be bypassed now.
Morning Break
Here, I am stopped overlooking the Castleman River. My food strategy for today is to eat bars and snack food throughout the ride and then go for a high carb pasta dinner in Cumberland.
Trail looks like a road
Salisbury Viaduct
Here is the Salisbury Viaduct. I love the views from here and walked across so I could enjoy them. Not far from the other side I ran into a refreshment station for a marathon run that day. I learned later, they were having marathons everyday that week. I think I heard that right. So I passed a bunch of really spent looking runners. A couple managed a chipper greeting but most could not manage much at all.
Keystone Viaduct
This cool viaduct is built for 2 tracks, as was the Salisbury Viaduct. Both were built in 1911. There was never a 2nd track built on either.
The place I have been looking for all day
Here it is, the top of the trail and the start of the 24 mile downhill. You can see that I rode in the easier direction.
Big Savage Tunnel
Its cool inside. Probably 20 degrees cooler. And the lights mean you can see throughout. And it is smooth surfaced. Wow, that took a ton of money to build.
Rider in the dark
Emerging on the other side, a fabulous panorama opens up. One of the most scenic spots along the trail. It is another mile to the Mason Dixon Line. Mason and Dixon were hired to survey the agreed upon boundary between the Penns' land and the Calverts'. The Calverts received a royal land charter in 1632 from the Potomac north to the 40th parallel. In 1682, Charles II granted the Penns' land south to the Calvert border but using an inaccurate map and thus described the boundary differently. So Penn set up Philadelphia on disputed land. They squabbled for decades until they agreed to draw a line west, just south of the southernmost home in Philadelphia. Mason and Dixon did the survey work between 1763 and 1767. Of course it was all for naught. The Americans won their independence a few years later and the Penns and Calverts were left with nothing.
Stateline
Its fun riding downhill. The trail is a bit bumpy in spots. I made it to Cumberland about 4pm and was able to get a room at the Ramada downtown and then that big carb pasta dinner.
Cumberland
Another hot day is forecast for the ride out of Cumberland. I have spoken to a fellow in Little Orleans at the Little Orleans Lodge. He says he has plenty of room so that is my plan for a 44 mile ride. The C&O trail out of Cumberland is much rougher than the GAP. There are some real hateful sections. I'm hitting lots of gravel and tree roots.
C&O starts here
On the way out of Cumberland, the smell from the waste treatment plant is overpowering. The worst outhouse smell and then some. I continued to notice a slight offensive odor many times along the canal. The canal is stagnant and not so pleasant in spots. It sports a neon green layer of algae.
Leaving Cumberland
Wood lockhouse
There are 74 locks along the 184.5 mile canal. Almost every one would have had a lock keeper who lived in a lock house beside the lock. Most are made of stone blocks, some of bricks but this one is only one I have seen made of wood.
Algae in the canal
Get your lights on
By late morning I arrive at the Paw Paw Tunnel. Its dark and the surface is very uneven. No one should try to ride through the tunnel, even with a light. The interior walls are made of brick, more than 6 million of them. At 3118 feet in length, it bypasses 6 miles of bends in the Potomac River. Begun in 1836 with a cost estimate of $33,500, it was expected to be completed in 2 years. Fourteen years and $600,000 later it opened.
It was dark in there
That little speck of light is the other opening. The water was actually flowing in this area. Coming out of the tunnel, I was in a very tight gorge, see below.
Boardwalk in Paw Paw Tunnel area
The boardwalk is in rough shape but still serving well. It narrows ahead. Maybe too tight for mounted bicycles to pass.
As I ride into Little Orleans, I decide to get something to eat before checking into the lodge. Bill's Place is the only game in town, so that is where I go. Several of the guys I had spoken with during the day were also in here. It is a dark bar environment with a couple coolers and a couple shelves stocked with the basics. In the corner of the bar was Bill himself. Judging by the décor and Bill's demeanor, I'd say this was a good old boy hangout. Although, cyclists were a big portion of his business, I didn't think he was rolling out a welcome mat for us. I went to the corner of the bar and ordered a sandwich which prompted Bill to lean back in his seat, yell the order back into the kitchen. He seemed put out that I asked for some tap water to drink. When finished I paid and asked him if he would mind filling my water bottle. "Yes, I would mind, you can do it yourself." He proceeded to give me instructions on how to find the spigot under the deck.
I rode up the street and saw a sign for the Lodge. It was rather untidy. I knocked on the door, waited, knocked again. There were cars here but no one answered. It was early enough to make the 17 mile ride into Hancock, so that is what I did.
Canal aqueduct
Rather than bump along the C&O, I opted to take the ramp up to the paved Western Maryland Rail Trail. For the ride into Hancock, I could look down and see the canal below. Here the canal is bridged over a tributary of the Potomac. You can see the Potomac in the background. There are a number of these aqueducts along the canal.
Once in Hancock, I read the directory by the trailside and called the one B&B listed. They had one room left so I took it. It was a wonderful room and wonderful place. Bill and Darlene have owned B&Bs in Raleigh and Charlestown WV. They are interested in selling since they are tiring of the work. Bill mentioned to me he was 90 years old. Darlene's breakfast was wonderful. Truly a very bike friendly place. 1828 Trail Inn.
Osage Orange
Finally, the hot weather has broken and I will enjoy a cool day to ride. It is 63 miles to Harpers Ferry, where I have booked a room at the Quality Inn. It is a Friday so all B&Bs are booked or want you to reserve two nights. My friend Shari and her entourage will be in town tonight, riding in the opposite direction.
The odd looking fruit above is often found on the trail. They are the size of a softball and a lot heavier. Ouch, that would hurt.
With only 74 locks along the 184 miles, there are sections that don't have any for miles. A couple dams on the Potomac were constructed to back up water for use in the canal during dry periods and also to eliminate the need for a few locks. However, in this spot, four locks are bunched together. The area is known as Four Locks. The Potomac does a 4 mile horseshoe bend and drops 33 feet.
Four Locks area
Four Locks area
Four Locks area
Dam 5
When the cliffs meet the river, there is no place for the canal to go, except into the river. The cliffs were carved to allow for a tow path through here. Over the years, it has been damaged. On my first C&O tour back in 2006, there was a 6 mile road ride detour here. Now a wonderful surface of brushed concrete clings to the shore. Its like sidewalk.
There is lots of Civil War history through here. The canal skirts the edge of the Antietam battlefield. Harper's Ferry changed hands several times. It hosted a major battle in September of 1862 when Stonewall Jackson defeated Federal forces. It was a major supply store of the Union. The Confederates gorged on the food supplies and even traded their tattered uniforms for fresh bluecoats. That caused some confusion as you might expect. The Union soldiers were so disgusted with their commander Col. Dixon Miles, they shot him and left him to die on the street.
The approach to Harpers Ferry is so beautiful. Rock ledges and riffles punctuate the Potomac. Geese and other birds populate the rocks. A couple washouts required short detours. Harpers Ferry is visible long before you arrive. High on the hill is Hilltop House. In 2006, I stayed in the grand old hotel with a great view of the river. It has since fallen into disrepair. However, signs in Harpers Ferry "Hilltop House 2022" would indicate a renovation is planned.
The canal and Harpers Ferry are on opposite sides of the river. To get across, one must climb stairs up onto this bridge which has a walkway next to tracks. As you cross over, the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers is below. The remnants of former bridges rise up from the river.
Once across, you are in the historic area of Harpers Ferry National Historical Park. Most people think of John Brown's Raid when Harpers Ferry is mentioned. John Brown, an abolitionist, attempted to start an armed slave revolt by capturing the federal arsenal at Harpers Ferry. He had tried to enlist the support of Harriet Tubman and Frederick Douglas. Both declined, the lunacy of the plan was probably evident to them. On Oct 16 1859, Brown and 21 followers attacked. It is ironic that the first casualty was a black baggage handler who didn't freeze when they ordered him to. From that point, they caused quite a panic in town and did occupy the armory. However, once discovered, the armory was surrounded. President Buchanan sent Robert E Lee and some marines in to handle the situation. Jeb Stuart and Stonewall Jackson were there too. Once Brown was captured, he was tried and hung. Present at his hanging was John Wilkes Booth. How did all these characters get involved in this? Its like a whos who of American history.
I rolled into town and made the 1 mile ride to the hotel about 4:30. Shari and her group were a couple hours behind, so I had plenty of time to rest and recharge. We made arrangements to meet at a restaurant high on the hill, the Anvil. She, Richard and John joined me for dinner. The guys are avid bicyclists with impressive cycling resumes. After dinner, we took the short cut through the woods and down the hill to the Quality Inn.
Last day of my trip is another cool one. I have about 67 miles to go today including the road ride in DC. Its a chilly 45 degree start.
Big Sycamore
The trees on the river side of the canal can be huge. Since Cumberland I have been noting the size and species. By far the dominant big trees are Sycamores, like the one above. They often branch low indicating they were once in an open area.
Canal aqueduct
This aqueduct has been renovated. I believe this is the Monocacy Aqueduct. Near here is the Point of Rocks. A narrow gorge with barely enough room for the canal. The railroad bore a tunnel here but still it was the tipping point in the legal battle for access between the C&O Canal and the B&O Railroad. The legal battle went on for years, finally resulted in a ruling in favor of the canal. However, the legal cost bankrupt the canal which agreed to sell access rights to the railroad in order to stay afloat (pun intended).
Below Great Falls, many of the locks have retained their opening hardware and some gates can still be seen. Above Great Falls, everything has been removed.
Once I reach Georgetown, it is easier to ride on the Capital Crescent Trail alongside the towpath. This dumps me out in a busy area of Georgetown. My plan is to get to M street and then to 12th. Google maps is telling me otherwise so I follow it. It is about a 4 mile ride on the city streets to where my vehicle is parked. Many streets have bike lanes which is real nice. About 5:30 my ride ends. 344 miles in 5.5 days, averaging 63 miles per day. Whew.
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