Sep 15 Meyers Beach

 

Meyers Beach is a popular beach and sea cave location within the Apostle Island National Lakeshore. Kayaking to the sea caves along the cliffs is one of the most popular destinations in the park.We spoke with a couple at the bed and breakfast who kayaked here. They told us they had to wear wet suits to take the cave tour. It is one of the kayak tours I had wanted to do but my back was preventing it. I had helped a couple of the tandems ashore the day before and tweaked my back.

Instead we are hiking out along the cliff to view the area from above. 

We hiked out to a popular overlook about 2 miles out. Although dry today, this is often a wet area as evidenced by the timber planking and puncheons along the trail. We crossed several fiberglass bridges as well. 

Timber planking in a wet area

At the overlook we had nice views of the cliffs from above. The lakeshore here is exposed to the open lake, not sheltered by any islands. The waves have carved up this area pretty well. There are numerous sea caves, a few arches and lots of carved up cliffs. 

Natural bridge

These caves can become ice caves in the winter. Although, ice caves were a regular feature, warmer climate has not allowed ice caves to form during recent winters. The last ice caves that the park service allowed folks to climb in, occurred during a brief 2 week period in 2015. The previous winter had 60 days below zero degrees and the ice caves appeared after a multi year absence. Social media for that year enticed a lot of people to head out there. I was told that 250,000 people crowded Bayfield that year to have the ice cave experience. 

That dark spot is a deep crack in the rock. There is water at the bottom but not visible in the photo. You could hear the waves splash in the cave. It sounded rather violent. I'm not sure that is a cave I want to explore via kayak.

Some sea caves which may open into a larger chamber

We only had glances like this of the lakeshore. We did see some kayaks exploring but they were keeping their distance from the cliffs since the wind was picking up before a storm.

Sep 15 Boat Tour of the Apostle Islands

 

Today's activity is a 56 mile loop tour of the Apostle Islands. there are 21 islands. Twenty of them make up the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore, established in 1970. Madeline Island is the exception. It is home to about 400 families on a year round basis. Leaving the dock in Bayfield, our tour vessel heads northeast along Madeline Island to our east and Basswood and Hermit Islands on our left. Basswood is so called for the Basswoods trees which used to cover it. Once those trees were cut, a mixed forest returned. Today, Basswood wood is used for popsicle sticks. There was also a brownstone quarry on the island.  

We then pass by Hermit Island, so named for the hermit, William Wilson who resided here by himself in a trapper shack for many years. Local lore tells us Wilson was a cooper working for the American Fur Company in La Pointe, Madeline Island in the 1830s. The legend portrays William as a hot head. He gets into a longstanding feud with John Bell, a judge and is known as the King of Madeline Island. Wilson provoked Bell one too many times. Bell challenged him to a fistfight with the loser leaving the island for good. A single punch took Wilson out and he packed up his boat and made the short journey to another island. Folks kept their distance from Wilson as he was known to take pot shots at anyone approaching his island home. His cabin was visible from other islands, so when locals no longer saw smoke coming from his chimney, they eventually stopped to check on him. He was found dead on the cabin floor.

Also on Hermit Island is what remains of a brownstone quarry. The stones above have been cut and await shipping. It has been a long wait. Brownstone quarries were short-lived because brownstone building was short-lived. Initially, the stone was used as buildings became larger than wood timber frames could be built. It was much cheaper than granite and marble. However, brownstone wasn't as strong as marble and granite and could not support the weight needed to build tall buildings. 

Sandstone here varies in color. When the blocks were cut they were graded by color. A number was written on each block so rocks of the same color could be used when constructing a building. An early "color by number" maybe?

Honeymoon Rock

A newly wed couple was often seen sitting on this rock. There are stories about the couple and the rock but they all sound made up for us tourists.

As we slip pass Oak and Stockton Islands we are still sheltered from the lake winds which can cause havoc when there is nothing between you and the wind. The waters around these islands are quite calm compared to the rest of the open lake. 

The islands all have land mammals - raccoons, skunks, deer, bear etc. Every year the bears on Stockton Island are counted using DNA collected at feeding stations. It has the most dense bear population of anywhere in the country. One large male made 4 trips between Oak and Stockton Islands during one season. Researchers couldn't figure out why that bear swam back and forth so many times. It seems that bear had girlfriends on each island. 

Fish camp

Ironwood Island has a healthy population of American Hornbeam or Ironwood. Some baby furniture brands use Ironwood since it it so hard, teething is not possible. 

The boat passes Cat, South and North Twin and finally Rocky Island. North Twin is the only island not to have been logged. It looks the same as the others though. Now, we are in rougher water without the shelter of any island to settle down the wind. We pass Devils Island which has been sculpted more than any others due to rougher water.  

Devils Island is by far the most scenic as you can see from the lakeshore cliffs. 

Devils Island Lighthouse

Raspberry Island Lighthouse

One of the smallest islands, Raspberry, boasts this wonderful lighthouse. The park service maintains it and offers tours. The park service was concerned about the eroding lakeshore threatening the structure. A pile of rocks were shipped in to protect it from erosion. Sounds simple enough but it cost $1 million. 

Sep 14 Kayaking Lake Superior Red Cliff area

 

We are kayaking on the lakeshore of Lake Superior, Gitche Gumee as the Ojibwe natives called it. Just north of Bayfield WI is tribal land of the Red Cliff Ojibwe. How this became tribal land is an interesting story I'll cover in another post.  

We launched in a secluded area near the Legendary Waters Casino. The drive to the launch is a bumpy sand road through a campground to a dead end. Here, Gabby, our guide greets us. There are 5 tandems, one triple and Gabby in our group.

The lake has some slight swells but it is probably as calm as the lake ever gets. Our first wildlife sighting is a group of young Common loons. 

About 15 minutes into our paddle, Gabby guides us to the site of a shipwreck. In 1901 the Fedora, a 282' ship carrying iron ore, sunk here. The wreck is clearly visible in the very shallow water. We are told the entire crew safely made it to shore in the shallow water. 

Continuing, we paddle alongside the reddish/brown sandstone cliffs which line the lakeshore. The water has sculpted the rock in all sorts of ways creating ledges, arches and caves. 

We take turns paddling into several caves. Some were wide enough to turn around in, others required backing out. Paddling in is fairly simple. Heading out backwards takes more skill especially when there are waves. 

Ceilings in the caves were covered in a white lichen with a few Rock cap ferns poking out here and there. 

One cave was large enough for 3 tandems to maneuver about, 

Tricky cave exit

Gabby had us paddling under a couple docks and later through an arch.

Look closely to see the arch

The arch was the turn around spot. Then we got to paddle back by all the cool features we had seen on the paddle. 

Jul 21 My Annual Carolina Lily Update

 

This year I will have 6 blooming Carolina lilies. That is the most ever. A few years ago, I identified 49 on the property but only the ones I have enclosed in fencing have ever bloomed. The others get eaten by deer, usually before they bloom. The deer will eat them before, during and after blooming. 

And for good measure, one of my Purple coneflowers with a visiting bee.