Feb 23 A Few Obscure 6000' Peaks

MST on flank of Potato Knob 6420'

In our quest to top all the 6000' peaks in the NC/TN area, Will and I found four that we could hike in a day. Located in and near Mt Mitchell State Park are at least a dozen 6000' peaks. The four we chose to do were all south of Mt Mitchell itself. Beginning on the MST where it crosses NC 128, we hiked MST south. The route I'd downloaded from the Carolina Mountain Club had us hiking on the trail a short distance and then we needed to head up Potato Knob. I missed the manway up Potato Knob and we kept hiking MST south. At some point we realized we'd gone too far and turned back. However, we were impatient and decided not to go all the way back around the mountain but instead, just bushwhack up. It looked intimating with a large vertical exposed rock face we'd have to get over or around. The scramble was thick with thornless blackberries, reeds and further up rhododendron. Mt hiking poles were a real nuisance. We had to crawl and fight the rhodo until we got into thick spruce fir forest. Very shortly we located the manway and headed to the top. The scramble took alot of my energy and I never fully recovered throughout the rest of the day.

Towers on Clingman's Peak in background

After attaining the top, or what we thought was the top of Potato Knob, our next destination was Clingman's Peak. Clingman's Peak is not to be mistaken for Clingman's Dome in the Smokies.  When Elisha Mitchell made his exploratory trips into the Blacks in 1835 and 1844, there resulted some confusion as to which peak was the  highest and which peaks did Mitchell actually ascend. He may have climbed Clingman's, Gibbes or Mitchell on those cloudy days in 1835 and 1844. His colleague, and future adversary, Thomas Clingman made an 1855 exploration, climbing today's Mitchell and measured it's height at 6941'. Barometric elevation calculations have proved to be off but it was the best they had then. At this time, the name,  Clingman's Peak was attached to present day Mt Mitchell and the name Mt Mitchell was attached to present day Clingman's Peak. Elisha Mitchell decided he was going to defend his discoveries and in 1857 headed back. It was on this exploration, Mitchell fell to his death over a waterfall between Mt Mitchell and Mt Craig. Is that clear?

Who lives here on Clingman's Peak?

On our way to Clingman's Peak, we had to go by this very recently built home. I don't know if this is a private residence or something else. We looked in the windows and saw furniture like a residence but also a table positioned near the front door, which could have be welcoming area. Not far uphill, behind the house, we ran into the chain link fence surrounding the communication towers.

It is hard to actually stand on the top of Clingman's Peak 6583'

We could easily have slipped under the fence but then you'd have about 60-80 yards of toppled trees to get over. These looked as if they had been cut in the past couple months.

Is this bullshit?

We walked around the fenced area to the right and ran into steep rocks which we could not climb. So, we turned around and went the other way and eventually came to the road and gate.

Bunkhouse on Gibbes

Just a few feet from the gate, we located a side road headed up Gibbes. We saw several rusting towers which are now dwarfed by the monstrous ones in the gated area. Also, on Gibbes we saw "The Hootch". It was unlocked so we took a look. There were very crude bunk beds and some crude kitchen facilities. It was well stocked with Costco sized Ramen Noodle packages and a stack of tuna tins. The drawer labeled "BEER DRAWER" was empty.

Gibbes 6571'

It was just a short stroll from "The Hootch" to the top of Gibbes. From here we needed to descend to Steepes Gap and the Mt Mitchell Ranger Station. We could have followed a gravel road which provided access to the communication towers but we decided to bushwhack our way down. We were right on the boundary of the State Park and there was a faint path along the boundary. We lost the path a number of times but always seemed to be led back to it. We popped out of the wood right at the ranger station.

From here it is a short climb up to the top of Mt Hallback. We had already decided at this point we'd climb Hallback then turn back instead of continuing onto the Mitchell. There was a bushwhack off the Old Mitchell Trail to the top but we did find a sign at the top.

It is listed variously as 6300'  6320'  and 6391'

After enjoying lunch in an open spot on the side of Hallback, we headed back to the MST. At the ranger station we encountered a ranger on his way out. I asked if there was a path to the MST nearby, since it was only a few hundred yards through the woods at this point. "NO" you have to go up this trail 1.3 miles to access it and technically you can't go off trail he told us. I'd not heard that before. We waited until he was out of sight and headed off trail. It was steep downhill with lots of rocks and a really thick utility line access to cross but within 30 minutes we were on the MST, having saved ourselves about 3 miles of hiking on horse trails. The walk back from here was uneventful. We ended up doing 6.2 miles in 5 hours.

Jan 31 Tow String and Smokemont Loop Trails

On my final day of this year's Wilderness Wildlife Week, I'm hiking a couple trails in the Smokemont area. I've been in the area for a week and only hiked on one organized hike. So no exception today. I'm hiking alone again. I don't know if I'd been able to talk anyone into hiking a horse rutted trail with me anyway. Tow String Trail is that trail and it is used almost exclusively by horses. It looks like there are many other abandoned or unmaintained trails in this area. Maybe they just became too rutted to use anymore. It was a forgettable hike on this trail and I was glad to transition to Bradley Fork Trail and finally onto Smokemont Loop Trail.

I liked the hike up and then down this final trail. Near the end I walked through the Bradley Cemetery.

Jan 30 Old Settlers Trail

It is cold this morning. There is a 3 mile section of Old Settlers Trail between, Maddron Bald Trail and Webb Creek I have not hiked. So that is the outing today. There is fresh snow on the ground as I start up Maddron Bald Trail. Within a half mile I overtake a fellow whose prints I have been following. He is a local guy, having been "born in the field across from the trail head". He is headed up to the old Marshall Place. He tells me that is where the turn around used to be. I think I know the spot he is referring to. Maddron Bald Trail becomes much rougher at that spot.

Not long after leaving my friend, I turn right on Old Settlers Trail and once again see no tracks except this coyote's prints below. Marty Silver had just pointed out a couple days ago, how coyotes walk efficiently in the snow, placing the rear feet in the footprints of the front feet. This coyote demonstrated that very well.

Old Settlers trail has many signs of former homes and human activity. there are stone walls, stone piles, occasionally a dam and cemeteries like the one below.

At some point along the trail, a set of footprints appears, having come off trail onto the trail. I follow them for several miles until I reach the McCarter barn. This was to be my stopping point, at Webb Creek. I know the trail continues into Greenbrier by the confluence of Ramseys and Porters Creeks. My plan was to backtrack here but I see the footprints continuing and I know this fellow must know his way around, so I follow them. In less than a mile I'm back on Rt 321 where I see where a car has left tire tracks in the snow. My unseen hiking buddy must have walked in somewhere nearby. It is just over 2 miles along Rt 321 back to my car at the Maddron Bald trail head. Rt 321 is not a recommended hike. 

Jan 29 Cove Mountain

All park roads are closed due to ice and snow. The only place I can get to is Sugarlands Visitors Center. The ranger behind the information desk suggests I can hike up Cove Mountain, down to Laurel Falls and walk back along the closed road to make a nice loop hike. That sounds interesting until I take my map out at Cataract Falls. It is 10:30 and the mileage he suggested is 17 miles. Plan B develops, walk up Cove Mountain until I turn around. 

What great views and sights I had today. Brilliant clear blue sky, blinding white snow and beauty at every turn. I walked up past several homes built along the park boundary. Some folks had accessed the trail in this area with dogs but had not gone far. I was breaking trail once again. 

I walked until I turned around, had lunch and retraced my way back. While gone, Cataract Falls had gone from totally frozen to partially frozen. Great scenery today. 

Jan 28 Greenbrier to Sugarlands

A change in plans was worked out early this morning. The original plan was a hike to Thunderhead Mountain (Rocky Top) but snow was forecast and access to the pick up, near Cades Cove, was likely to be unavailable. With only 3 of us signed up to participate today, we easily came to agreement on an alternative. As we stood in the convention center figuring out what to do, the other two participants, friends from Louisville, Wave and Brenda, were soon joined by John an AT through hiker from a few years back and Bev, an adventurous Michigan transplant to Tennessee. Our hike leader is Marty Silver, a Tennessee State Park ranger from Warriors Path State Park and "LA", another State Park ranger is our sweep. We're going to hike from the ranger station in Greenbrier, up Injun Creek, to Grapeyard Ridge Trail, to Baskins Creek Trail to Old Sugarlands Trail, ending at Sugarlands where we know the pickup point will be accessible.

It is a cold morning but there is no snow on the ground and everyone is ready for a long day. Marty has inserted hand warmers in his mittens and toe warmers in his boots. I've got the heavy gloves and thick wool cap, both reserved for extra cold days. We are dropped at the Injun Creek trail head and begin hiking. The lower portion of the trail is an easy grade and everyone stays together, but as we begin to climb, our sweep, LA appears to struggle. She is carrying a down sleeping bag, a sleep pad and lots more. Marty wants to be prepared should someone become injured. So at the top of Injun Creek we wait and wait for LA to catch up and then redistribute some of her weight among the rest of us.

Now we hike on Grapeyard Ridge Trail. There is an access trail to the horse concession area on Rt 321. In this area, our trail has the typical horse ruts seen too often on park trails. Snow is now coming down and seems to be blowing in our faces all day. Marty hikes fast and stops often to point out what most don't see. He identifies trees, footprints, birds, some fungus and plants and even got me to eat a wild grape raisin. It tasted like a raisin. Each time we stop, it is a long wait for the slower hikers to catch up. Marty is a fast hiker and if I don't pay attention to his pace, I look up and see him far ahead. 

Finally we make it to Roaring Fork Road where we can shelter in the cabin below, for lunch. I eat a frozen turkey burger sandwich and warm up with hot tea. My water bottle has frozen and of course the insulated camelback is frozen. While stopped, I can thaw the bottle and pour some water from the camelback to the bottle. I try to keep the camelback thawed the rest of the way by keeping the end nestled in my armpit. That didn't work. I've yet to find a good use for my armpit.

For the first time ever, I put hand warmers in my gloves, just before we head out on Baskins Creek Trail. This trail has much more uphill in this direction, so once again we stop for stragglers often. All but two of us, take the spur to Baskins Creek Falls. I have to make this trek as it is the first time I've visited since I spread my father's ashes here.

Marty sets up a tripod and says he will take an extra 15 minutes to get the right picture. He'll catch up with us. The rest of us move along heading up and up. My hands are burning up with the hand warmers. Bev says hers are not working well, so we switch. About 30 minutes later, her hands are burning up too. So Grabbers work better than LL Bean hand warmers. At the end of this trail, we wait some time for Marty. LA gives an owl hoot and Marty answers with his owl call.

The final 3 miles are easy miles on old roads. We pass the old CCC camp and can see the snow topped chimneys in the woods. Before exiting the woods, I "get my picture made" above. We all have matching white hats at this point. Just under 15 miles took almost 9 hours.

Jan 27 Little River Trail almost to Campsite 30

I've hiked on Little River Trail several times before. Once I almost made it to the very end, campsite 30 but was turned back by the last stream crossing. Today, I was determined to hike that final piece, which I think is only a tenth of a mile or so. Yesterday I had some shoulder fatigue from carrying too much weight, so I tossed some items out of my pack today.

The walk up Little River is an easy one on well maintained two track trail. The river crossings are bridges which you could drive across. Once beyond the Rough Creek Trail bisection, the trail does become a bit rougher but still a easy walk. There was one spot which had washed out all but about 3 feet of trail. That was covered in ice today. It looked much worse that it was. I was able to kick into the ice for footholds. 

Now I'm at the creek crossing above and I don't see a good way to cross it. I scramble upstream and then downstream and nothing looks any better than where the trail crosses it. It looks like I might be able to make it across but the return doesn't look as good. The water is deep and rushing. The rocks are slick and rounded. One of the items I had taken out of my pack were water shoes. I don't know if they'd have helped much here though. After a good 45 minutes which includes lunch, I decide the crossing is too risky. If I get wet, it'll be a real miserable 6 miles back to car. If I slip and break something, it may be a while before someone finds me. The last 3 miles of trail had only deer and coyote prints. So once again I fail to see campsite 30.

On the return I run into a WWW group on a shorter loop hike. Otherwise there is no one else out today.

Jan 26 Henwallow Falls

Henwallow Falls is a short spur off Gabes Mountain Trail in the Cosby area of the GSMNP. I had previously hiked to the falls from Cosby but not from the other direction. So these were new miles for me today. Starting at on the Maddron Bald Trail, we accessed Gabes Mountain Trail about a mile from the trail head. There was snow on the ground and streams were partially frozen. We were the only footprints in the snow on the trail.

Lunch was at the base of the falls. A series of icicles formed what looked like an upside down pipe organ. Water ran under ice and over ice and between ice. The rocks below had a sheen of ice making for treacherous footing.

On the return, I noticed some flagging I had not seen on the way in. I followed it for a couple hundred yards until it started downhill. Small trees had been sawed to make a pathway through the rhododendron. The flagging was fresh and the tree cuts looked to be about a month old. About a mile further along the trail, near backcountry campsite 34, we encountered a set of footprints in both directions. We assumed someone had hiked toward the falls and turned back. That was not the case. Shortly before campsite 34, new flagging, as in "today", with a set of footprints, led away from the trail. At campsite 34, the prints ended, so I can only surmise someone has flagged a trail to access the Gabes Mountain Trail, probably from a home just outside the park. Perhaps the other trail we saw creates a loop from that home. That would make a good mystery hike.

The snowy trail slowed our progress and we ended up taking 8 hours to hike 11 miles.