Aug 6 Yellow Mountain

 

It's the third day of the ATC Vista event. The Appalachian Trail Conservancy hasn't had an event since 2017 when I attended the final ATC Biennial event at Colby College in Maine. At that time the ATC decided to go with an event every 3rd year instead of 2. Thus the name change to "Vista". Covid got in the way and last year's New Jersey event was cancelled due to low registrations. So, here we are in Johnson City this year, 6 years since the Maine event. In 2025, the ATC will celebrate 100 years. Where? No one knows. This event is being run and hosted by Tennessee Eastman and Carolina Mountain Clubs. Eastman maintains 130 miles of AT. CMC probably has a similar distance. They rely on local members to lead the hikes. Bob and Sharon are once again leaders for this hike. Bob has obtained permission to visit Yellow Mountain from the owner, The Nature Conservancy. We carpooled from Johnson City to Roaring Creek road. The road is paved for several miles, then a rocky narrow dirt track to a small parking area.  

It is just a short walk beyond the gate, perhaps 1/2 mile to reach the Overmountain Victory trail shelter or "the barn" as many people refer to it. This is the spot the AT intersects the Overmountain Victory Trail, which is actually a trail here, not just a track. There were many people in the adjacent field so we just took a glance before continuing north on the AT. As we walked out of the gap, views to the east opened up including a view of the barn. 

This time of year in the open areas of the Roan mastiff, wildflowers are at their peak. Coneflower, Tickseed, Queen Ann's Lace and Angelica dominate the meadows scenic beauty. Blueberries, Blackberries and various grasses dominate the meadows otherwise. 

We continue on the AT until Big Hump and Little Hump appear. It is close to the base of Little Hump that we step off the AT onto a very faint track in the grass. Sharon leads the way through the sometimes, head high grass. 

Check out the bee

It is probably a mile of this faint track which does eventually become a two track. We follow the two track through an area partially sheltered by Rhododendrons and Alders. Eventually, we reach a closed but unlocked gate. Signage requests that the gate remain closed. There are cow patties in the balds but we don't see any cattle today.

Once through the gate, we are in an open grassy bald with wonderful views of tree covered mountains. Yellow Mountain from a distance looks like an elongated crescent with half covered by scrub forest and half by 2 distinct open balds. We hike out to some rocks, above, where the upper bald transitions to the lower one. 

From our vantage point, we can see views to the north and east. Below us on the side of the mountain is a large home. As we drove up Roaring Creek Rd, where the pavement ends, is a gated drive with a Sotheby's for sale sign. Later I looked up the listing. One of the most magnificent homes I've ever seen sports a $5,600,000 price tag. It is located in the forest just below the edge of the bald.

We linger for a bit at our lunch break but we know there is a chance of thunderstorms lurking out in the clouds. We retrace our steps back to the At and then make the 15 minute climb up Little Hump as an added bonus to our hike. Then, head back south on the AT to Overmountain Victory Gap. Here the group decides to take the Overmountain Victory Trail back to the parking while I opt to walk on the gravel road which allows me to visit the barn.

The gate to the balds

I spend a few minutes walking around the barn and looking closely at it. It is to be torn down and is officially closed now. On my hike the next day, I meet the fellow who will be in charge of the demolition, Carl Fritz. 

The barn was used for years by AT hikers as a oversized trail shelter. Piped water from a spring is located a few hundred yards away. The loft was used as a sleeping area, as was the platform seen above. After a few minutes, I head down the gravel road and arrive at the parking area at exactly the same moment the group does. Thunder and rain started about 5 minutes before reaching the cars, so we were all somewhat wet. I feel very fortunate to have had the opportunity to visit Yellow Mountain.

Aug 5 Appalachian Trail - Straight Branch to Damascus

 

We carpooled from Johnson City to the brand new Appalachian Trail Conservancy's Visitor Center in Damascus where we met our hike leaders, Gerald and Ann. It was a late morning start after the trip to Damascus and the carpool to the trailhead. The hike is about 4 miles of AT arriving southbound into Damascus. 

After the group photo shoot on the bridge over Straight Branch, we head up the stone steps on the AT,

We spend a good amount of time ascending on the trail. The area has been considered for wilderness status but has not yet met all the criteria. We did see some large trees and there are some spots off trail with old growth forest. We hiked past many Rattlesnake Plantain plants as well as many mushrooms. 

At a water break, Gerald air drops the group shot to everyone but me. I'm the only one without an Apple phone. I quietly gave him my business card and asked if he could e-mail me, the old fashioned way. He did do that later.

Not much in the way of views on this section. Here is a partial view we caught a glimpse of. Lunch as at a large campsite with enough nice places to sit. This was by far the hottest hike I had at the conference and I was glad to walk down the steps leading to the road into Damascus.

If you have bicycled the Virginia Creeper Trail, you may have noticed these steps as you make the final roadside ride into town. We walked about a mile into town on the Creeper Trail. It was a busy Saturday on the bike trail so we kept a constant vigil out for bikes coming from behind. 

Aug 4 Iron Mt on the AT

 

Group photo after hike at Osborne Farm on the AT

It's the first day of ATC Vista event in Johnson City, TN. I met my hike group at 7:45 on the ETSU campus. Our's was the only hike leaving at this hour. Originally scheduled to go on Big Yellow Mtn but due to rain we are hiking on the AT to Iron Mountain. Our hike leaders are Jersey transplants to Johnson City, Sharon and Bob. Our group numbers lucky 13 hikers. We have folks from NY, MA, NC, SC, TN and PA. Sharon and Bob had hiked this on Wednesday and were reporting over 100 Turks Cap and Carolina Lilies.

It is a cool morning in the mid 60s with a chance of rain. After parking at a rather large parking area along Rt 91, we head out southbound on the AT. Yesterday's several inches of rain has dampened the forest and filled the streams. We pass a Carolina lily, many Rattlesnake plantains in bloom and numerous boletes and amanitas. We also pass a tent with a fellow resting inside. Bob mentions that he was there on Wednesday, 2 days ago. He said hello to our group so we were somewhat assured he was in distress.

Our hike ascended up Iron Mountain. The mountain is a long ridge mountain without any other road access for about 18 miles where it reaches Watauga Lake. There is only one shelter in this area. Another one, near Watauga Lake was removed a few years. It was close enough to a road that it became a party spot and bears were frequenting daily. A trail maintainer told me, people were feeding bears there by leaving food. 

On the ridge we passed several Turks Cap lilies before arriving at our turnaround spot - Uncle Nicky's memorial and grave site. 

Lived alone, suffered alone, died alone.

While we sat by the memorial, Bob had told us Uncle Nicky's story prepared by another local hike enthusiast. Nick Grindstone grew up on a farm in the area and seemed to start out life in a normal manner. He made his way to California but years later ended up back here. He built a cabin on the ridge of Iron Mountain and lived here for 40 years. There was water nearby. He had a vegetable garden and hunted for food. He'd make a trek into a local community occasionally for a few supplies and a haircut. One day a rattlesnake slithered into the cabin to warm itself by the fire. Nick let the snake stay and it became a regular visitor. They left each other alone and you might say it was his pet. Until, someone dropped by to pay a visit, saw the snake and shot it. During his last years, his constant companion was a dog, Panter. Nick finally passed and was discovered by someone stopping by. For three days Panter would not let anyone near the body. Finally, Nick was laid to rest right there beside his cabin. He died 100 years and 13 days before our visit. It took a couple years, but local folks held a celebration of life for Nick. Hundreds made the trek to attend. A gravestone was installed on the cabin's chimney. The grave was adjacent to the chimney. Over time the memorial has been repaired. There are pieces of pots and other items that have been embedded in the mortar.

Our return hike was uneventful. We passed by the flowers we had seen on the way up. It is always exciting to see lilies, even the same ones seen earlier. The tent was still occupied by the fellow we had seen in the morning. I wonder what his story is.

Bob had promised several times that we would have an add on hike at the end if everyone agreed. No one objected, so once back at the parking area, we walked across the road to continue on the AT.

Until just a few years, the property across the road was an operating farm. The property is know as the Osborne Farm and was considered a prime property to add to the national forest and the AT. We entered the farm through a gate with a complicated latch. Sara, the youngest of us, was given the chore of figuring out the latch. It took her a few mere seconds to open it, disappointing Bob who had hoped it would be a comical undertaking. Being the last one through, I closed the gate and tried to open the latch. It took me considerably longer than it took Sara.

We walked across open fields and took a look at the barn. Sharon took a group photo of us here (first photo of this blog entry). We continued a short distance to a wonderful bench where there were very scenic views.

Jul 13 Herbert Hoover's Rapidan Camp

 

After being elected in 1928, Herbert Hoover and his wife Lou Henry wanted a retreat from Washington for relaxation. They personally purchased property in Madison County Virginia in what is now Shenandoah National Park. During the warmer months, the Hoovers very often visited weekends 1929-1933.

In 1929, the Hoover's first visited the camp. They envisioned a series of tents with wood floors. These would be called "yurts" today. However, that quickly was scuttled in favor of more permanent structures. The Marines, based on the property, built 13 buildings including two mess halls, a "town hall" social and recreation center, a lodge for quests, several cabins for guests and the Hoovers' cabin, known as the Brown House. 

One of Hoover's first acts was to decommission the Presidential yacht Mayflower, saving around $5 million (2023 dollars) annual maintenance costs. The furnishings, dishes, flatware and the Filipino mess crew were transferred to Rapidan. 

Rapidan Camp some became a place for presidential business. One of the earlier visitors in 1929 was Ramsey MacDonald, Prime Minister of Britain, along with his family. The cabin he stayed in (photo below) became known as the "the Prime Minister's House". A nearby cabin was named "Ishbel" since it was where MacDonald's daughter stayed.  MacDonald and Hoover discussed naval armament limits. 

In 1930, Senator Smoot and Representative Hawley met with Hoover to discuss tariffs on agricultural goods. The resulting legislation was the disastrous Smoot-Hawley Tariff Act. 

In 1931 during May and June, the Cabinet met on 4 successive weekends to discuss the US financial crisis and impending European financial collapse.

Charles Lindbergh, Henry Luce, Horace Albright, General McArthur, Edsel Ford and Theodore Roosevelt paid visits. Lindbergh brought a gift, an autographed parchment map of his Trans Atlantic flights made into a lampshade.

Prime Minister's House

Since the camp was privately owned, the President could keep the press away. The Marines were instructed to always say that the President was fishing and unavailable. This got reported and led to a negative view of the President as not being attentive to the duties of the presidency. 

Hoover had a firetower constructed on nearby Fork Mountain. Almost daily hikes or horseback rides to the tower were a popular morning activity.

We toured the Brown House but were not able to photograph inside. From photos, the interior is furnished as it was during the Hoovers' tenancy. All cabins had running water, electricity and telephone service. Mail was dropped from a plane. Newspapers were delivered daily. The Hoovers added another bedroom in the Brown House so Lou Henry would not be interrupted during the night by urgent business that required waking the President. 

The Brown House was decorated with Navajo rugs, hand crafted pottery and simple furnishings. Lou Henry wanted things simple and to blend with the woodsy surroundings. 

What is left of the Town Hall

The Town Hall was a large building designed for meeting during the day and social and recreational events in the evenings. 

Entrance to the Brown House

Visitors are welcome to hike to the site. There are several options to hike there from Milam Gap parking area. It's downhill, so the reverse is up. Once there, you can walk about the camp and enter the Prime Minister's House. The on-site employee, locks and unlocks. Another option is to take a guided tour which we did, beginning at the Harry Bird Visitor Center.  Book ahead of time as this tour is only given 3 times a day Thurs-Sun. A 15 passenger van takes and 30 minute, 6 mile bumpy gravel road, closed to vehicles. Our tour was with Ginny who spoke almost nonstop for 2 hours. She was a true Herbert Hoover scholar. We heard the fascinating story of his life and much much more about the camp and meetings which took place there. 

Rear deck of the Brown House

When Hoover left office, he donated the property to the government to be used as a presidential retreat. FDR took a tour and decided he didn't like it. He was wheelchair bound  and had difficulty getting around. Besides, he didn't like Hoover. FDR built his own retreat Shangri-La in the Catoctin Mountains. Later that was renamed Camp David. Rapidan Camp was used by Congressmen, Cabinet members and high ranking military leaders for a number of years. In the 50s, the Boy Scouts leased the property. Finally in 2004, it opened to the public. 

The President was able to fish in the nearby streams. The Marines diverted a stream to create a pool where Hoover's pet fish resided. 

Creel House

One of the three remaining buildings is the Creel House. A park employee resides here so it is off limits to visitors. The employee is on the premises to protect the remote camp and to interact with any hike-in visitors.  

Brown House

Jul 11 Blue Ridge Tunnel

 

Now, this is literally and figuratively a cool place. Especially cool on a hot summer afternoon in central Virginia. Located 700 feet below the intersections of Rt 250, Interstate 64, Blue Ridge Parkway, Skyline Drive and Appalachian Trail is the Blue Ridge Tunnel. With portals on both its east side (Afton) and west side (Waynesboro), the tunnel tamed the route through the Blue Ridge mountains at Rockfish Gap. 

This remarkable feat was made possible by Claudius Crozet. Mr Crozet now has a funky small town just to the east named after him. How did a French engineer mange this? Crozet served in Napoleon's army as a young man. He was captured and imprisoned two years in Russia. After his release, he again was with Napoleon's army but after Waterloo and Napoleon's abdication Crozet had had enough of Europe and headed west. After teaching engineering at West Point he landed a position as chief engineer for the Virginia Board of Public Work in 1823. There he worked on canals, bridges, turnpikes and much later, railroads. He left for a 6 year stint in Louisiana before returning to his old job in 1838. The Virginia legislature grew tired of his constant advocacy for a railroad route through the Blue Ridge to open up the Shenandoah Valley, West Virginia (then part of Virginia) to the Ohio River. Crozet was fired in 1841. Once again Crozet was hired to his old position in 1849 as the groundswell for such a route became widespread. His proposal to connect a route from Afton to Waynesboro by way of 4 tunnels was started immediately. The state legislation funded the Blue Ridge Railroad. It was to build a 17 mile track connecting to existing railroads on either side of the Blue Ridge.   

Hand drilled hole for black gunpowder

The four tunnels - Little Rock, Brooksville, Greenwood and Blue Ridge were part of the plan. Blue Ridge Tunnel at 4273' was by far the longest and most difficult. The work force was mainly Irish immigrants fleeing the aftermath of the Irish Potato Famine. Beside upwards of 850 Irish, about 50 locals and 40 slaves were hired. Rains and strikes plagued the construction which was being done by hand and black gunpowder blasts, 24 hours a day. Deaths of 189 persons were reported from 1849 to 1858. The public grew tired of the delays, so in 1854 temporary track was built around the unfished tunnels and the railroad was open for business but only for trains that could mange the steep and winding temporary track. Crozet's management was so severely criticized that he resigned in Jan of 1858 just months before the opening in April. The Blue Ridge Railroad was acquired at that time by Virginia Central which in turn became part of Covington and Ohio, then Chesapeake & Ohio and finally CSX. A sister tunnel was built in 1944 right next to the Blue Ridge Tunnel so larger locomotives could use the railway. The only tunnel of the 4 original ones still open and in use is Little Rock.

Waterfall in the tunnel

With the Blue Ridge Tunnel abandoned, a local company leased it in the 1950s to store propane. Two bulkheads were built inside the tunnel, one 750' in from the East Portal and the other 1900' from the West Portal. Although, the venture failed, the tunnel was now blocked in 2 spots. In 2007 CSX donated the tunnel to Nelson County. The Claudius Crozet Blue Ridge Tunnel Foundation raised the funds needed to remove the bulkheads and build trails and trailheads on both sides. In Nov 2020 it opened to the public.

There is a massive parking area by the East Portal and I assume a similar one beyond the West Portal. Approaching from the east, the first thing you see are the two tunnel entrances. The still active CSX tunnel built in 1944 is rather close, much fencing is needed to keep everyone off the live tracks. As we were walking in this area a maintenance crew was passing on the CSX track spraying herbicide which had an odd odor. Once in the tunnel you can see the other opening about a mile away. After just a few minutes you'll need that flashlight turned on. We encountered a number of folks walking, all had lights of some sort. There were no bicycles and I don't know if they are permitted. 

Long shadows in the tunnel. Note the brickwork ahead.

We heard traffic sounds occasionally. I think we were hearing truck traffic on the interstate 700' above. A train in the adjacent tunnel surely would be heard as well. Water penetration is evident in a few spots near the East Portal. Gutter ditches on both sides carry water out the East Portal. There were several drains built during construction to remove both groundwater and rainfall. We did not see any of these. 

From the East Portal side, you can walk to the West Portal and back for just over a 2 mile hike. It is about twice as long from the parking area on the west side.