greenmon's folly: Nov 11 Bearpen Hollow

Sunrise on Drive to Trailhead

Years ago I learned the traditional route up Mt LeConte was a scramble up Bearpen Hollow Creek to West Point and then east to the highest point. That was before trails were constructed. West Point itself is over 6000' but is recognized as a sub peak of Mt LeConte since the terrain between the two does not drop enough in elevation to be considered separate. I had read a couple accounts of this route and felt I had enough to go on as well as help from my GPS. I dutifully waypointed a couple key spots and printed a topographical map of the area before heading out.

The spot to enter the woods off Newfound Gap Road is about a mile from Alum Cave parking lots, downhill. I located the Bearpen Hollow and Cole Creeks and stepped off the asphalt about midway between them. Before I was out of sight of the road, I ran into a wall of Rhododendron which I skirted to the right. Three times I tried to punch through but was rebuffed with each attempt. Eventually I ended up along Bearpen Hollow Creek and followed it with an eye on holes in the rhodo. None appeared for over an hour. The east side of the creek appeared to be a better route, so that is where I headed. After some time along that side of the creek I began to see the rhodo thinning. That lured me back and I was content to again skirt the hem of the rhodo wall.

It became apparent, I'd have to work through the rhodo. I located a small gully which may have been a fork of the creek. It was good going for a while, then fallen trees made the pace slow. Somehow, this seemingly impenetrable rhodo was offering some routes. I could make my way slowly through it. It was taking much energy to do so. I needed to stop often to visually scout the next 30 or 40 feet ahead. Somewhere in this mess I decided to change GPS batteries as I knew the ones in there were low to start with. So I popped in a fresh set of dead ones. Next time I'll know to bring two sets of dead ones. At this point I knew about where I was and about what elevation I was at. I knew I just had to continue up. When I stumbled out into an open spot, I could see an 8 to 12 foot rock face in front of me. It looked ominous but right in front of me I could see a way to climb it. The vegetation above changed to rhodo minor. Now I had to crawl a bit and it was slow. Fortunately, it was short lived and I entered a spruce-fir thicket and then the flat area I had sought for so long. I envisioned a flat open area but it was no panacea. The forest was thick but I could walk upright for much of it.

First glimpse of CliffTops

I caught sight of West Point. It looked like a mile away and maybe 1000 feet of elevation to gain. I followed the ridge which led to the top, only deviating once to the left but getting around fallen trees was using too much energy. I attained the ridge again and never left it again. There was an animal trail. I noted bear scat and some fur on the bushes. When I spotted Cliff Tops for the first time I announced it out loud. It was good to attain another goal. Breaking the hike into a series of goals rather than one, helped me greatly. The ridge walk was difficult but not terribly taxing. There were a couple spots where the uphill ridge dropped 6 to 8 feet. It looked like one of these spots was one way only. Not that I was planning to return.

The rest of the route up was more of the usual obstacles. I thought I had made it to the top when I entered a patch of sand myrtle. That quickly gave way to a bear path through more rhodo minor. Alternately, I could stand and bushwhack or crawl. It too gave way to a final thicket of spruce-fir. Then I stepped into an open area atop West Point. Great views today. I looked around for a place to sit with a view but found none.

Typical route terrain

I suspected there might be a manway headed to LeConte Lodge from here. I did find it but lost it about 15 minutes later. There were two choices here. I could follow the top of the ridge over to Cliff Tops or drop down on the left to Rainbow Falls Trail. I tried to walk the ridge but the prospect of walking on trail overtook me and I headed down. It was further down than I thought but at 4 hours and 45 minutes of elapsed time, I popped out. As a friend put it, "adventurer became hiker" , amidst a rush of emotions with a grin which lasted a good 45 minutes.

I visited the Lodge, watched the llamas load up with laundry. Then it was a nice stroll down the Alum Cave Trail.